Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
